Photo of Sims rhododendron, stupid, large and many others


Photo of indoor plants

Flowering depends on the type and growing conditions of the rhododendron.

Briefly about leaving

Lighting must be bright, without direct rays. The air temperature must be maintained at 20 degrees in spring and summer, and about 14 in winter. Rhododendron is watered abundantly in summer, bottom watering is used, and less often in winter. The air humidity should be high; regular spraying with warm water is helpful.

Complex fertilizers need to be applied only from March to August every 15-20 days, and potash fertilizers are applied before flowering. Transplant the rhododendron after flowering, if needed. Cuttings are used for propagation, they are also propagated by division.

Read more about rhododendron care

Photos of popular species

Rhododendron large and Griffitz, Hooker and decorative, tree-like and pointed, Indian and Ketevbeian. The rhododendron is beautiful and marigold, Pontic and Sims, Sander and dull.

In the photo: Rhododendron arboreum / tree rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron arboreum / tree rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron calendulaceum / marigold rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron calendulaceum / marigold rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron catawbiense / Ketevbeysky rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron catawbiense / Ketevbeysky rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron decorum / decorative rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron decorum / decorative rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron grande / large rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron griffithianum / Griffith's rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron griffithianum / Griffith's rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron hookeri / Hooker's rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron hookeri / Hooker's rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron indicum / Indian rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron indicum / Indian rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron indicum / Indian rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron mucronatum / pointed rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron mucronatum / pointed rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron obtusum / dull rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron obtusum / dull rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron ponticum / Pontic rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron ponticum / Pontic rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron pulchrum / beautiful rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron pulchrum / beautiful rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron simsii / Sims rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron simsii / Sims rhododendron

In the photo: Rhododendron simsii / Sims rhododendron

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Heather
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Heather (Erik) Plants on R Photos of plants


Azalea and white cat

Passing next to a well-groomed garden, it is impossible not to direct your gaze at some unusual fruit. And many have an idea, or maybe they should think about growing something blooming at home? If the morning starts with positive feelings, then the working day runs easier. Gardening is a very pleasant hobby that will bring joy not only to family members but also to many passers-by. The flower garden is a great design improvement.

Pink beauty Azalea and white cat

A kind woman lived in a big city. Her name was Maria. Her children grew up and parted. But she had a cat of amazing beauty - white, fluffy, with huge blue eyes and pink ears. “What a handsome man!” - everyone admired. The cat allowed his silky fur coat to be stroked, he nodded his head and purred, contentedly: "Moore, moore, moore, you speak correctly." Yes, the cat in Maria's house was in the spotlight. But suddenly everything changed.

It was Christmas Eve, and Maria, deciding to decorate her house, went to the flower shop. All kinds of flowers were not here: multi-colored chrysanthemums, lush begonias, delicate touchy cyclamens and snow-white gardenias were beautiful, but Mary's eyes settled on the azaleas. "Which one to choose? White or purple, or maybe pink, with a white border around the edge of the petals?" Finally, Maria opted for a fluffy pink Azalea with many delicate buds. The azalea was packed and explained to Mary that this flower loves moisture, bright light and coolness, and can bloom for a very long time. Maria, thanking the owner of the flower shop, happily hurried home.

The pink beauty Azalea illuminated everything around with a gentle joyful light and, looking at her, I wanted to smile. Visiting friends could not take their eyes off her. And the white cat seemed to have been completely forgotten.

"What an injustice" - the offended handsome grumbled to himself. And when one of Maria's friends, an old artist, decided to paint a wonderful flower, the cat tore off a piece of wallpaper from the wall in anger and was punished. Maria threatened that the next time she would cut off his claws for such a trick. The cat, offended, hid behind the sofa and did not appear in Maria's eyes for a long time.

But Maria did not forget about her pet cat. It's just that never before has there been such a miracle in her house, and she tried her best to prolong its flowering. Maria's care bore fruit, and every week Azalea delighted the hostess with new blossoming flowers.

The cat, on the other hand, grew gloomier. "Who is she? Just a plant. When all her flowers wither, what will be left of her beauty? Nothing, ”he reasoned viciously.

Once the cat almost chewed off the Azalea flowers. On this day, Maria gently whispered about something with a flower, and then opened the window so that the flower could breathe fresh air. The cat could not stand the winter cold, and a gust of cold wind pissed him off. “To catch a cold because of this princess, well, no,” the cat thought, and in one jump he found himself near Azalea. At that moment Maria entered the room. The cat instantly ducked under the sofa. Maria didn't even notice him. However, the sight of the cowering Azalea alarmed her. “I must have overcooled her,” thought Maria and closed the window. She carefully examined the flower, but Azalea quickly regained consciousness, and Maria calmed down.

The cat, watching this scene from under the sofa, was surprised: “But she is not a sneak! She didn’t betray me, she didn’t complain! ” The next day, when the sun smiled affably at Azalea, a large sunbeam slid along the wall and stopped right above the shelf with ceramic pots. The white cat considered himself the smartest cat in the world, but he could not understand in any way that the sunbeam is just a reflection of the sunbeam. Obsessed with the desire to deal with the sunbeam at all costs, he completely forgot about his venerable age and jumped all over the room like a little kitten. And now, he instantly jumped on the table, then on the shelf and touched one of the most beautiful pots with his fluffy tail. The pot fell and shattered to smithereens. The frightened cat was confused, but suddenly he heard a gentle voice: - Hurry, hide behind my green back!

Azalea watched this whole scene, and she felt sorry for the good-for-nothing handsome from the bottom of her heart. The cat rushed with all its cat's paws to the flower and hid behind its fluffy branches strewn with flowers. The azalea had grown so much that the cat behind it was completely invisible.

Maria ran to the noise. Seeing no one except Azalea, she thought that the wind blowing sharply through the open window was to blame.

When Maria left, the white cat said to Azalea: - You are the kindest Azalea in the world. Probably, because of your kindness, your flowers do not fade for a long time. Please forgive me.

Azalea for bonsai

Azalea (RHODODENDRON) HEATH FAMILY

The genus Rhododendron sp. it is widespread almost completely - in the northern hemisphere, in areas with a temperate and cool climate, in the mountains and on the coasts, and only one species is found in Australia. In total, there are more than 1300 species in the genus Rhododendron, of which 8 are found in the mountains of Europe, about 30 in North America, and the rest in Asia, most of which are in the mountains and coastal regions of China.

In modern botany, there is no division into azaleas and rhododendrons, all are rhododendrons. Azaleas by tradition (coming from the classification of Linnaeus) are called some types of rhododendrons, usually deciduous. Now these are mainly hybrid plants, originating from the Sims rhododendron (synonym - rhododendron indicum) - Satsuki azalea, and blunt rhododendron (Rh. Obtusum) - Kurume azalea. Rhododendrons can be from 4-5 cm to several meters in height, and their flowering, as a rule, is not inferior to that of azaleas, and often significantly exceeds it.

Azaleas are evergreen or deciduous small shrubs with characteristic leaf size and structure and rich flowering. In the specific case of Rhododendron simsii, a species native to China is considered, widely distributed as an ornamental plant. It is characterized by very small oval leaves, which, when blooming, hide under a thick cover of red or pink double flowers (perianths). It has strong, well-branched stems covered with a thin, but rough and uneven bark of a dark reddish brown color.

The other species have in common flowering and evergreen or falling foliage annually, and the difference is the shape and size of the leaves, starting with completely oval and ending with extremely narrow and spear-shaped. In some, the end is blunt, while in others it is clearly pronounced, some leaves are very tiny, while others are very developed in size. The color of slightly rough leaves is dark green.

Abundant flowering is concentrated at the ends of the branches, forming a bright, continuous and magnificent spot that merges into one. In azaleas, flowers (perianths) can be simple and double, and colors in the range from pure white to burning red, and then pink, orange and fuchsia colors, two different colors are added to them in the flower of one plant or have flowers with white petals. - pink or white-red, obtained as a result of vaccinations.

It is better to keep Azaleas in our latitudes in a sufficiently sunny place. It makes sense to shade azaleas if they grow on the southern windows, only on the sunniest days in early summer at noon hours. Especially during the flowering period, otherwise the flower petals fade quickly and the flowers fall off in a matter of days. In dark places with limited access to light, with a humid and cool environment, the azalea acquires conditions for the development and increase of its decorative qualities, full of brilliance and beauty.

When kept on a loggia with wintering, the genera need mandatory shading when they come out of wintering with a frozen lump in the spring, and the sun is already starting to fry. In this case, it is necessary to gradually accustom the plant to light.

Water Regime: Watering is one of the most important maintenance issues for this type of shrub. For long-term flowering, azalea should not lack water. However, moisture must not be allowed to stagnate in the pallet. Plants in this case will simply rot - these plants cannot stand stagnant moisture. In no case should you use water with a high content of calcareous elements (containing calcium and magnesium salts), which do not contribute to the growth of azaleas. Outside the flowering period, you should switch to more moderate watering, but do not allow the soil surface to dry out. You can also spray the foliage with a spray bottle, if the environment is too dry, the flowers may become stained, spoiling their appearance.

Azalea also needs a special soil, which should consist of an acidic substrate, rich in organic matter, and have a high ability to retain water. Throughout the growing season, complete fertilizers with microelements should be applied. In autumn, the nitrogen content must be reduced.

Coniferous soil (soil from under old pines), semi-rotten needles, high moor (sour) peat, coarse sand in a ratio of approximately 2: 1: 1: 0.5. You can also add vermiculite and charcoal.

Transplanting and pruning of roots is carried out at the end of flowering annually in young azaleas and every two years in older specimens. The rhizome is reduced by one third of its original length. Damaged and overgrown roots are removed if possible.

Azalea pruning works are carried out in late spring or early summer, depending on the flowering period, after which the branches are removed. Pruning young shoots before they get too hard and try to leave at least two to three leaves at each end of the branch. Harvesting should be regular, both during the flowering period, with the removal of wilted and dried flowers, and during the rest of the year in evergreen specimens, of course in autumn in deciduous species, when fallen leaves are removed. It is also necessary to remove small dry twigs inside the crown, which spoil the appearance of the tree.

To obtain the chosen style for each piece of wood, in addition to pruning, you can resort to wire wrapping and stretching with rope and spacers. At the same time, one should not forget that the change in the direction of growth of the tree occurs gradually, without undue pressure, since azaleas have very hard and brittle wood. The best time for these works is from spring to autumn.

The genus Rhododendron sp. usually very resistant to a variety of pests and diseases when grown properly. House pests are not very scary, with the exception of the spider mite, but fungal diseases very often affect genera, especially hybrid azaleas. All kinds of rot, stains, wilting, etc. If the growing conditions are not met at the beginning of the season, an invasion of aphids and wood lice can be expected.

Also, the possibility of the appearance and spread of soil red mites in excessively hot and dry places is not excluded. It is necessary to change the conditions in which the azalea is located, and apply an appropriate insecticide or acaricide to get rid of the parasites.

In some cases, the leaves can lose their characteristic bright green color due to chlorosis, which can develop if the causes that caused it are not found out. It is usually triggered by a lack of nutrients, especially minerals such as iron, nitrogen or magnesium, a supply of water with a high carbon dioxide content, or a lack of light. Fungal diseases appear very easily, especially when the forced excess of moisture is combined with high temperatures and poor ventilation, then the leaves become covered with brown spots, and their edges become grayish.

With such manifestations of diseases, the affected leaves should be removed and treated with the desired fungicide, as well as the growing conditions should be improved.

Azalea home care

Azalea was discovered in England around the end of the 18th - early 19th century. Brainius, a Dutch scientist, discovered this plant during his travels. He was amazed at its beauty and beautiful colors. As a result, the scientist brought this shrub to his homeland. Only after a certain time has elapsed the plant died, because it did not take root.

After a while, another scientist and traveler Conners tried to tame the azalea. But the attempt was also unsuccessful, as the plant died, unable to withstand the move.

And only at the very beginning of the 19th century from India, Captain Wellbank brought the first sample of azalea, which successfully took root. The specimen then gave birth to many other shrub varieties and hybrids. Also important is the work of botanical scientists, since they were engaged in long-term selection work. She contributed to the emergence of this delightful shrub, delighting us with lush flowering when the rest of the plants are still "dormant".

Photo collection in which the most common types and varieties of indoor plants are displayed - azaleas

All species and varieties of azaleas belong to the heather family.Among the varieties, you can find trees growing up to 20 m, as well as shrubs with a height of 0.3-3 m. You can see this by looking at our photo gallery of flowers and azalea plants.

Azaleas in the garden.

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Azaleas - how to care in the garden.

Azalea is one of the most beautiful flowering shrubs in our gardens. Who, walking in the spring, will not pay attention to their beautiful inflorescences, and an unusual, intense aroma. There are hundreds of varieties that delight us with their variety of colors, flower sizes, or even the size of the bush as a whole. All of them are united by a beautiful appearance, which leads to the fact that the gardens, in which azaleas bloom, become extraordinary places, charming, inviting for physical and emotional relaxation.

Azalea description.

However, in order to enjoy these beautiful flowers, they should be given the necessary minimum. This plant is not difficult to grow, but taking into account the amount of work that needs to be invested in it in relation to the number of flowers that it will give us, it is safe to say that azalea is one of the "most profitable" plants that are found in our gardens. The area where we will grow it should be sunny or slightly shaded, preferably calm, with acidic soil. After flowering, we cut off whole inflorescences. Azalea does not require pruning, except for the removal of dried parts. Frost-resistant, survives almost every winter in our climate.

Garden azaleas are becoming more and more popular from year to year. Therefore, all the time its new varieties appear, which differ in many details. As for the color of the flowers, first of all there are pink, red, yellow, white, sometimes orange azaleas and many crossbreeds of these flowers. When choosing an azalea in a garden store or nursery, probably everyone will find the variety that they like best and the most suitable for the rest of the garden.

Azalea varieties

Japanese azalea care and varieties

As you can see, azalea is a plant that, with appropriate cultivation and minimal effort invested in care, will be able to thank you with beautiful, charming flowers. The number of varieties that we now know make it possible to create an azalea garden, in which, walking in May, it will seem to us that we are transported to a multi-colored, fabulous and unusually fragrant country.

If you have something to add, please be sure to leave your comment on the site.

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Negative flowers

Flower lovers may be outraged that there are no bad colors, but this is not always the case. First of all, ordinary flowers are suitable for some people, and only exotic ones for others. This already says a lot, because it is worth knowing not only which indoor flowers can be kept in the bedroom, but which definitely should not be chosen for the house, and even more so for the territory of rest and sleep. This includes the following plants:

Vines - steal a person's strength, inspire a feeling of loneliness, can cause melancholy, divorce and celibacy
Azalea - affects the appearance of arrhythmias, and if you eat a couple of leaves, intestinal colic may begin
Dieffenbachia - contains poisonous juice, so it is important to wash your hands thoroughly after caring for it

Monstera - drains energy, considered an energy vampire
Oleander - contains poison, more precisely poisonous juice in its own leaves
Croton - the juice secreted by the leaves causes burns with prolonged exposure
Rodea Japanese - due to the poison in the juice of the leaves, it causes baldness, burns and an allergic reaction.

As you can imagine, these are all superstitions, and whether it is worth living with them is up to you. Those who believe in such signs will definitely find a reason to prove that this is true. Is it worth the risk - think and only then equip a living corner in the bedroom.

Note that there are a number of opinions as to whether it is possible to put flowers in a private room. Some believe that this is categorically contraindicated - the third extra in the bedroom, while others believe that it is necessary - harmony and comfort will come to life. What do you trust? It is worth listening to your heart and solving this issue on your own, and we will only help you with this!


Photo of Sims rhododendron, stupid, large and many others - garden and vegetable garden

Capricious damsel AZALIA

Message Elvi 09-03-08, 09:10 Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:52 pm

This really, though a capricious flower, but very grateful, has been living with me for several years. In winter, in a cold corridor, under almost round-the-clock artificial lighting (I often forget to turn it off at night). And blooms, blooms blooms until spring. And in the spring he moves to the dacha. First, in the house, and in June, when the threat of frost passes, I plant it in the ground, in partial shade - the sun gets in the morning and evening. And I forget about him. I water it along with other flowers. Sometimes it blooms by the end of summer, but mostly it grows new branches and picks up buds. At the end of August, I transplant it into a larger pot. But at the same time I use not garden soil, but special, for Azalea.

Azalea - a capricious charmer
The peak flowering of azaleas under room culture conditions falls on the most "colorless" months, from December to March, which is why we value them so much. In nature, this time corresponds to the end of winter - the beginning of spring. It is a pity that most of us are unable to preserve them - buying or receiving a flowering plant as a gift, in the vast majority of cases we hardly have time to admire it as it dies. Exceptions are rare. There are several tricks that allow, despite the whims of azaleas, to preserve them, they are all based on knowledge of the characteristics of the plant and its life in nature.
Substrate, container, transplant
Azaleas require breathable fibrous soil, preferably a mixture of coniferous or heather soil with peat and coarse sand, which has an acidic reaction (pH 3.5 to 5), with a minimum amount of clay particles. Azalea containers must have effective drainage. An almost ideal substrate is red sphagnum peat. I must say that the notorious sterile peaty substrate, in which imported plants travel from one country to another, is also quite suitable for azaleas. And in this respect, they are almost the only exception to the general rule. These days it is easy to buy a specially prepared potting mix for acidophilic ("acid-loving") plants, which include azaleas.

At home, when watering with tap water, the soil under the azaleas, even if initially the required acidity, gradually alkalizes, which negatively affects the condition of the plant. Irrigation water for azaleas can be slightly acidified, for example, with a drop of vinegar or lemon juice in 2 liters of water while it is settling, or just before watering. Azaleas, like most heathers, have a shallow root system, and therefore the container for them must be low and wide. When transplanting, it is important not to deepen the root collar (if you find it difficult to determine where it is, just do not plant the plant deeper than in the previous pot). The root ball must be handled with care - the roots of the azaleas are so thin that, due to inexperience, they can be mistaken for peat particles. If you damage them during transplantation, the plant can "hurt" for a long time and even die, especially if it is of venerable age. Therefore, the easiest way is to restrict the transfer of the plant to a larger container, very tightly clogging the gaps between the lump and the walls with a proper substrate. In general, it is worth replanting them once every two to three years, it is better to properly fertilize if you assumed, looking at the state of the plant, that the nutrient supply in the soil was depleted.
Watering
In azalea culture, watering is perhaps the most important operation. They are extremely sensitive to him. They need soft water without a large lime content, ideally - rain, melt or from a clean natural reservoir. In between waterings, the soil should remain evenly moist - the lump can be slightly dried. Water should be abundant, but not excessively. Overdrying, like excessive watering, leads to the loss of leaves, buds and already opened flowers. Especially carefully you need to monitor soil moisture during budding and flowering. Water the azaleas with water at room temperature (by no means ice cold).

Sourish peat soil, in which azaleas feel quite comfortable, has an unpleasant tendency to dry out quite quickly (moving away from the walls of the pot), and it can be difficult to "soak" it at the same time - water simply flows down the gap between the lump and the wall of the pot and does not get into inside. Therefore, when watering azaleas, two rules should be observed. Firstly, it is necessary to water regularly, not allowing anyone to dry out too much - the thin roots of azaleas cannot tolerate any prolonged drying out, and if you do not water on time, it may be too late to "solder" the plant - the roots simply cannot recover. In addition, the physical movement of particles of swelling soil when it is soaked after excessive drying can cause multiple ruptures of the thinnest end roots - the most active in terms of water absorption, and the plant, of course, will not improve from this. Secondly, regularly does not mean little by little: watering even several times a day, a little at a time, can be fatal - after all, you do not know whether the entire earthen lump has gotten wet or only the top layer has moistened, treacherously masking an actually dry pot. Therefore, it is useful to water by the "immersion" method, that is, the pot with the plant must be lowered into a vessel with water, which is larger in diameter. It is important to remember that dry peat is extremely difficult to rehydrate and it can take at least several hours for the root ball to actually get wet. If you got a huge azalea in a heavy container, it makes sense to put a deep pallet under it. Excess moisture will drain into it with each watering, and do not rush to remove it from there, let it absorb as much as possible (for several hours) and add if necessary. Only after the lump is saturated with moisture to the limit, drain the excess. Over time, you will learn the "rate" of your plant.

Re: Capricious Azalea

Message Elvi 09-03-08, 09:10 Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:54 pm

Continuation. Widespread misconception

Surprisingly tenacious turned out to be one stereotype that came from nowhere with regard to watering azaleas - laying ice or snow on the soil surface under the plant during flowering. This usually does not lead to anything good - on the contrary, hypothermia of the roots causes a strong temperature imbalance between the root ball and the crown, and the plant cannot but suffer from this. However, it must be noted that this method, apparently, is still suitable for cool greenhouses with sufficiently humid air, where in this way two tasks are solved at once: the root ball is slowly and evenly soaked with soft melt water, free of chlorine, in "semi-automatic "mode. In an apartment, it is best to avoid this method and water the azaleas as described above.

Pruning and shaping the crown. The flower buds of azaleas are formed at the tops of the shoots (which is why, during the rapid flowering, sometimes the leaves are not visible!), And in advance - even at the end of summer. For successful and abundant flowering, it is important to observe two rules: firstly, prune the plant in order to form as many tops as possible on it, and secondly, it is important not to be late with this pruning, because if it is carried out too late, the tops may be there will be a lot, but flower buds on them will not have time to form, and flowering will be weak or not at all. Strongly growing shoots should be mercilessly shortened, in this case the crown of the plant will be compact. Plants with rounded crowns look best. You can form standard specimens (in the form of a tree with a pronounced stem and crown of a rounded or bonfire shape) or bush. The latter are more natural and easier to care for. The cut tops of the shoots can be used for grafting. It is important to start forming the chosen type of plant crown as early as possible. Stamp azaleas form over several seasons. In a strong cutting with a well-developed apical bud, all lateral growths are cut out, forcing the main stem (future stem) to stretch out. A plant that lives on a windowsill must be periodically rotated 180 degrees so that the stem does not tilt to one side and remains as vertical as possible. Then, continuing to cut out all the lateral shoots, pinch the top, which stimulates branching in the upper part of the stem. Next, you only need your patience and a sense of proportion, you will need to leave a few of the strongest skeletal branches of the crown and make sure that none of them overtakes in growth and does not shade others. Shrub azaleas are much easier to form and even an amateur can do, since the plant takes this form in a natural way. A young plant (most often a rooted stalk) is pinched at a height of 10-12 cm, after which usually several lateral shoots appear. They, in turn, also remove the tops. The last pinching of the tops should be carried out in early varieties no later than March - April, in late ones - in May - June.The purpose of this formation is to get a plant with a beautiful voluminous crown and evenly laid buds. In general, annual pruning boils down to shortening all the shoots of the previous year and completely removing unnecessary, weak or too closely spaced branches.

Fertilizers and feeding. The substrate in which azaleas thrive is usually quickly depleted. With regard to the supply of minerals, peat is not only empty in itself, but also does not retain salts well - they are easily washed out. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize azaleas! However, you need to know when and how to do it. In winter, azaleas are in physiological dormancy, do not grow, therefore, it is not worth fertilizing them. In the spring, at the end or after flowering, with the beginning of the growth of new shoots a couple of times a month, they need to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the form of foliar feeding - a very weak solution of urea can be sprayed onto the leaves. In summer, when azaleas "walk" in the fresh air, a thunderstorm shower is especially useful for them. In essence, this is the same nitrogen foliar feeding. The overwhelming majority of plants from the heather family, to one degree or another, do not tolerate excess chlorine in the soil. You should choose such feeding for azaleas, which do not contain chlorine-containing salts or they are present in minimal quantities. It is for this reason that it is good to use thawed or settled tap water - it contains less chlorine. At the beginning of summer, azaleas can be fed with full mineral fertilizer (this is especially good for plants planted in peat, or imported specimens that were not transplanted after purchase). During the laying of flower buds (in July - August), more phosphorus and potassium are required. When "overfeeding" with nitrogen at this time, an excessive amount of fast-growing shoots appears around the buds, which overtake the laid flowering tops in growth. It is better to remove them - all the same, there will be no flowers on them, and if this is not done. They will have time to draw on themselves a significant part of the food that is not intended for them at all. In the warm season, azaleas respond well to feeding with microelements, especially magnesium and iron, which are lacking in peaty substrates. With a lack of iron, the plants take on a stunted appearance, and the leaves - an icteric shade. The situation is saved by a couple of doses of iron chelate or other iron-containing drug per season (follow the instructions for the drug or the fertilizer guide). The leaves of a healthy azalea are glossy, dark green with a metallic sheen.

Protection from pests and diseases. Of the common pests for azaleas, the spider mite is the most dangerous. Its "element" is the dry and hot air of the rooms. In such conditions, it easily appears (in the summer through open vents, and in the winter - on bouquets and potted plants from flower shops), but it is quite difficult to fight it even with the help of chemistry (which, however, is in any case undesirable in living quarters). The only salvation is to often (several times a day) spray the plants with ice water from a spray bottle. Remember that the water must be separated. The sprayer itself can be kept in the refrigerator between the "approaches". If it is not possible to completely lime the tick, it will be so suppressed that its presence will not affect the condition of the plants. The appearance of aphids or other pests, alas, means that you still have to resort to chemical treatment, but choose certified products that are not toxic to people and pets. In general, keeping plants clean contributes to their health: the timely removal of dried leaves and flowers (including from the soil surface) is one of the simplest, but very effective measures.

Azalea in winter. Winter in an ordinary city apartment for an azalea is a critical time. It is during this period that the main sales of blooming azaleas fall, it is this time that is most difficult for them to survive in our darkened and hotly heated premises. The climate of our apartments is not at all suitable for them. The ideal temperature for azaleas during the period from late November to late January is +10. + 12оС, and even +6. + 8оС at night, with fairly high humidity. It is for this reason that the overwhelming majority of azaleas introduced into apartments in "marketable form", after a few days (rarely weeks) lose both open flowers and buds. Leaves crumble from them, and it all ends rather sadly. What can you recommend here? First, don't get azaleas unless you have a suitable light, cool, and damp room. If you certainly want to see them on your windowsills, treat them like bouquets, knowing in advance that their term is short. However, in old apartments, where the window frames were not changed to double-glazed windows, on light window sills, close to the window panes, you can find suitable corners. The main thing is that there is no hot central heating radiator nearby. It is essential to spray the azaleas with soft water, taking particular care to keep the underside of the leaves wet. Of course, when at the end of winter the azalea rewards you with lush flowering, it should be sprayed with some care, trying not to fall on the flowers, which will quickly lose their decorative effect from drying drops.

Azalea in summer. Azaleas respond very well to summer "walks" in the fresh air - in the garden or on the balcony, just not in a strong wind and preferably no longer than an hour in direct sun. Rainwater irrigation is very favorable for them, but, of course, in dry weather they cannot be left for a day without additional watering and daily spraying. In the spring, it is better not to rush to take the plants out into the air - accidental frosts can kill them overnight (it is believed that in Moscow and the surrounding area the risk of the last frost will pass after June 10). The cool nights of early autumn are not so harmful for azaleas that have spent several months in the wild, but if you bring the plants too late, and God forbid, immediately into a heated room, they will suffer from a sharp change in conditions and may even start growing prematurely. mistaking the warming for early spring. Therefore, it is better to move them into the room before the heating turns on.

Reproduction. The easiest way is to buy a plant in a store (or receive it as a gift). But if you are patient and independent, there are three main methods of propagation of azaleas, which are resorted to in different cases, depending on how they want to get the result - sowing seeds, cuttings or grafting. Azaleas are propagated by seeds, as a rule, only by professional flower growers in order to develop a new variety. Reproduction by cuttings is not so difficult - after a year and a half (with a less successful scenario - after two and a half) you will get a new flowering plant from the rooted cuttings. Own-rooted azaleas are safer than grafted ones. Many cuttings can be cut from one large mother plant at once, therefore it is this relatively cheap method that is traditionally used in flower farms. Cuttings can be removed from the middle of winter (January - February), but the best results are obtained by spring-summer cuttings (from March to June). Shoots of a certain "maturity" are suitable for cuttings. Woody, too hard shoots do not take root for a long time, soft green ones quickly wither and die. Cuttings with a semi-lignified base, 4-7 cm long, root best of all. To avoid decay, the lower leaves are removed. Fresh cuts of cuttings are treated with root formation stimulants, and the leaves are pollinated with growth substances and planted vertically to a depth of 1-2.5 cm. The best substrate for rooting is the same coniferous soil or sphagnum peat, in which adult azaleas feel best. The rooting period ranges from 3 to 5 weeks. However, cuttings of some varieties take root poorly. It is they who are forced to propagate by grafting (which can hardly be called an easy and commercially viable method) or by tissue culture (which is also not cheap even under industrial cultivation conditions). Slow-growing and hard-to-root varieties are propagated by grafting (copulation). Despite the laboriousness and "non-flowing" of this method, the results are sometimes worth the effort: you can, for example, plant several varieties in the crown of one plant. Such specimens are extremely effective (especially in the form of bonsai), but it is necessary to know the characteristics of each variety used, since such a "combined" plant will be most decorative only if the grafted varieties have the same rhythm and growth rate, and are also close in terms of flowering.


How to water an azalea

The fundamental requirement for caring for an azalea is to water regularly, but not to overmoisten, to avoid stagnant water, drying out the soil. The ground should not be wet, but slightly damp. To prevent the earth from alkalizing after watering with tap water, alternate watering with plain water and acidified water - sometimes add 2 g of citric acid per liter of water and water the flower, but not often).

With the onset of autumn, after flowering, slightly reduce watering. If the flower is in peat soil, poorly absorbing moisture when dry, sometimes place the pot in a bowl of water for up to two hours. It is important to remember that heat and dry air are detrimental to the plant: the azalea will begin to shed flowers and leaves.

During the heating season, constantly spray the leaves of the plant using a fine spray from a spray bottle. You can place the pot of azalea on a tray of damp pebbles, but do not allow the pot to come into contact with the water. Ideally, water and spray with rain, melt or river water, but at least softened - it should settle at room temperature, cold water should not be used.


Top dressing and care

The root system of plants is not deep, so the trunk circle cannot be loosened. In late March - early April, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate 15-20 gna bush) should be carried out. Potash and phosphate fertilizers should be applied in mid-June. You cannot fertilize plants at the end of summer, so as not to provoke their growth. Lime and chlorine should be avoided. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are watered abundantly using rainwater. In the spring, it is necessary to mulch the near-trunk circle with pine and spruce bark (with a layer of 2-3 cm).

In the feeding zone of the plant root system, there should be no lime, ash, clay, because this will change the acidity of the soil towards an alkaline environment, and this will affect the vital activity of plants. The ph of the soil should be 4.5-5.

During planting, it is recommended to make a 10% aqueous solution with the antistress drug "extrasol". For 10-15 minutes, hold the root ball in a bath with a solution.

Rhododendrons are very moisture-loving plants and are sensitive to drying out of the soil, therefore, special attention should be paid to watering, especially during the budding period. Watering with collected rainwater has a very beneficial effect on plants, but rhododendrons cannot be watered with cold and chlorinated water.

If the plants are exposed to fungal diseases, the diseased leaves must be removed, and the bushes must be sprayed with "Kaptan" or "Fogmarit 25W". If the leaves turn yellow-brown and the plants stagnate, then this is chlorosis - a disease caused by an excess of lime in the soil. In this case, it is better to transplant the plant. Elongated and bare shoots are shortened in April. Radical pruning is carried out in an adult plant once every 3-4 years.

Before the beginning of winter, the bushes must be well shed with water (on thawed soil).

For the first winter, it is recommended to cover the rhododendrons with non-woven materials - spunbond, lutrasil, etc. Better to use wireframe shelters. In the spring, it is necessary to open the plants in several stages: within 10-15 days, in cloudy weather - to avoid sunburn. By following the above recommendations, you can avoid the problems associated with growing these plants. Success is guaranteed.

Text and photo: Nikolay Voronkov, landscape architect, designer, gardener


WINTERING RHODODENDRONS

Deciduous rhododendrons require no cover, but I always cover the soil with mulch. Indeed, in the middle lane there are sometimes frosts without snow, and this is destructive for many plants. So I advise you not to risk it: covering the near-trunk circle of the bush is a matter of minutes.

Evergreens, with the right choice and planting, ideally also do not need shelter, but it is better to wrap them up anyway. If the winter sun comes in, the foliage will burn, so wrap the bushes in burlap. And cover the soil surface under the bush.

In the spring you need to keep an eye on the weather forecast. Sometimes there are frosts, and already swollen flower buds can freeze, as a result of which there will be no flowering. This has happened to me, since it is not always possible to cover the plants in time.


Pests.

Beautiful bush inflorescences often suffer from insect attacks. If pests are not detected in time, the plant will quickly die.

Rhododendron bug.

The insect has wings. It reaches 3 mm in length. The inside of the leaf is covered with secretions that resemble resin. This is because the bug lays eggs there. Then his offspring begins to feed on the sap of the plant, depleting it. As a result, the shrub becomes yellow, and the leaves curl up into a tube.

To get rid of bedbugs, treatment with insecticides "Decis" and "Fury" is carried out.

Weevil.

The weevil literally eats shoots, buds, leaves, buds. His offspring feeds on the roots of shrubs. Thus, all parts of the plant are affected. Adult weevils do not move much and do not fly. During the day, the insect hides in the soil, and at night it eats all the shoots.

Apply funds "Bazudin", "Aktara".

Beater.

Gradually eats up the entire leaf plate, eating it piece by piece. As a result, only streaks remain. Roots and stems are also affected.

You can fight the beater with Diazinon.

Mealybug.

It affects shoots, leaves, roots. The discharge that remains after the mealybug provokes the development of fungi. Due to fungal plaque, the plant looks dirty, loses its neat appearance. Damages all young parts of the shrub.

Treatment is carried out with the help of "Aktellik", "Fozalon". At the initial stage, a soap solution is used.

Slug.

Slugs love to eat with very young leaves when they are still in their infancy. Slugs can be trapped by hand or trapped using regular planks.

The shrub should be treated with Mesurol.

If they have captured a plant, then a whole colony or even several colonies are immediately formed on it. Their vital activity provokes a slowdown in growth and a suspension of flowering.

Treatment is carried out with Actellik and Karbofos.

It feeds on leaf sap. Leaves behind lightened spots. Subsequently, the plant is depleted and loses its decorative appearance.

Shrubs are treated with nicotine sulfate sprays. Apply "Apollo", "Demitan", "Fitoverm".

Everyone who has ever seen it falls in love with the exquisite azalea. The shrub requires attention, care and is often attacked by pests. However, its decorative look and scent is well worth the effort.

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