It is quite simple to prepare the seeds of small-fruited strawberries yourself. There is now a practical need for such a procurement - trading organizations have significantly raised the price of seeds, at the same time reducing their quantity in a package. If not long ago there were 100-200 seeds in a bag, depending on the variety, now there are 10-15 seeds, or this amount is masked by a weight of 0.04 grams.
The price is rather "biting". I calculated: in order to plant a garden with small-fruited strawberries with an area of five square meters, you need at least 4-5 bags of seeds.
Often, gardeners express fair complaints about the quality of the seeds, especially if they are bought in stalls and from different distributors. On this I myself "burned" more than once. Seeds with very poor germination or completely non-germinating were sold in colorful bags of well-known companies.
Once I bought seeds of the varieties I was interested in - Seasons and Ali Baba. The seeds sprouted well, but when the time for fruiting came, it turned out that instead of the Seasons variety, I had two different varieties with red and yellow berries that had nothing to do with the Seasons variety. According to his description, the plants should have a mustache, which the grown on my garden did not have. In the bag with the Ali Baba variety, there was an admixture of some weed seeds. Although the variety turned out to be good, I do not know if it is really the variety I bought or some unknown one.
Of course, I do not think that the purchased seeds are produced by the companies whose names appear on the packages. The following case convinces me of this. There is a seed stall in a mall near my house. In the spring of this year, there were on sale seeds of four varieties of large-fruited strawberries: the Dutch variety Gigantella-Maxim, the Danish variety - Zephyr, the American variety - Tribute and unknown to me - Ampelny.
As you know, large-fruited strawberries are propagated by seeds by breeders when breeding new varieties, but this method is not suitable for gardeners. The seeds were in large beautiful packages, 15 pieces cost 29 rubles. A Moscow firm was listed on them. I wrote off her postal and e-mail addresses, and my son and I, using a computer, found out that, indeed, there is a company at this address in Moscow that sells seeds, but there is not a single variety of any strawberry in the list of seeds it offers. Our inquiry about strawberry and strawberry seeds was answered that the company does not sell them. So branded bags in different kiosks and distributors may turn out to be fake.
Now, if I want to start a new variety, I try to buy seeds in company stores, or I take them from gardeners I know, and for the current plantings I harvest them myself.
The easiest way to harvest strawberry seeds is as follows: when washing strawberries, a lot of seeds fall out into the sediment, so I pour the sorted berries into a large saucepan or bowl, pour water there and stir the berries. Then I choose them in another container, pour out a lot of water, filter the remaining water with the seeds through a cloth or cheesecloth and dry in the shade.
This method has two drawbacks: if several varieties grow on the site, then each variety must be collected in a separate container; and the second drawback is that not fully ripe seeds come across, which reduces germination.
There is another way... From the bushes that give the best harvest and have larger berries, take several well-ripened berries. If the berries are large, with a razor blade they remove the seeds with a small part of the pulp, knead in a glass and spill, changing the water. Then the seeds, together with the pulp, are wrapped in nylon fabric (part of the stocking or tights) and dried in the shade, stirring occasionally so that they do not stick together, and the pulp is crushed. When everything is well dry, the pulp is easy to winnow from the seeds.
If the berries are small and it is difficult to remove the seeds, ripe berries are kneaded in a glass and washed, often changing the water. With this method, higher quality seeds are obtained, and your own clonal selection is possible.
I noticed that strawberry seeds quickly lose their germination and it is impractical to store them for more than two years.
On one packet, I read the following: "Sowing seeds from the last decade of February to the last decade of July; planting seedlings from the second decade of May to the end of August; harvesting from the first days of July to the end of September"... Another package reported that full germination of seeds in 3-4 weeks, and planting in a permanent place in 9-10 weeks after sowing seeds for seedlings. And on each package there is a statement that the crop can be harvested in the year of planting.
I have been doing small-fruited strawberries for a long time, I have tried these tips in practice and I can say the following: sow seeds in late April - early March early for our conditions... They do not germinate for a long time (up to 30 days).
If the container with seeds is placed in a warm place (under the battery), the strawberries can rise in 7-10 days, then the container with the seedlings must be placed on the windowsill. But there is not enough light, heat - too, because not every gardener can illuminate and warm up his seedlings. Plants stop growing and start growing only at the beginning - mid-April.
Seedlings can be planted in a permanent place at the beginning of June. Plants will develop well, give some flowers and small, not typical for the variety of berries. These berries I would not count as the first harvest. Strawberries will bloom and bear fruit normally only if they have been at freezing temperatures for a sufficient time in winter. Therefore, I began to sow strawberry seeds in the third decade of April and later.
This is how it looks in this year's example.
I did the first sowing on April 26th. Seedlings appeared on May 2. I transplanted it into a seedling box on June 14th. In the first decade of July, the seedlings were ready for planting in a permanent place. I dropped her off in the third decade of July.
I spent the next sowing on June 7, deciding to increase the area occupied by this variety - Yellow Miracle. The seeds began to sprout on June 13, on July 3, I transplanted the seedlings into a box, planning to plant them in the garden in the first decade of August. Strawberries planted during these periods have time to take root well before the cold weather, and next year they will bear fruit normally.
The seeds obtained from this year's harvest can be sown in a container with soil in July, covered with foil and placed in a greenhouse. Seedlings will sprout in 6-7 days. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings must be cut so that the distance between the plants is 5-7 cm. When they already have 5-6 true leaves, they can be planted in a permanent place. Strawberry seedlings will take root and overwinter successfully, but for insurance after the first frost, when the soil freezes, you can cover it with spruce branches.
If the seeds are sown late, and the plants have only 2-3 true leaves, you can take out all the seedlings in one lump from the container and dig in. You can cover it with something for the winter - I covered it with an old parcel box, and then sprinkled it with foliage. The seedlings overwintered well, at the beginning of May I planted it in a permanent place, and it gave a normal harvest a little later than the one planted in the beds in the fall.
V. Lazovsky, gardener
The seeds of large-fruited strawberry hybrids are expensive. In addition, the package contains from 3 to 10 small seeds. It is easy to lose them in seed boxes and bowls, so it is better to sow the seeds of such strawberries in peat tablets. The method is also convenient in that at the first stage it is not necessary to sift and steam the soil mixture and dive strawberry seedlings.
Do not think that growing strawberries from seeds is unreliable and very laborious. It's useful and fun!
Firstly, in one season, you can get a lot of bushes of a new variety. Moreover, most varieties of alpine (small-fruited) strawberries do not give a mustache, but after 3-4 years it requires rejuvenation.
Secondly, in this way you can get new varieties of strawberries. And now a large number of them have appeared on sale, including large-fruited remontant varieties.
Large-fruited garden strawberries - "strawberries" - and small-fruited alpine strawberries are sown in the same way.
Small-fruited garden strawberries are not inferior in aroma to wild berries. Like a large variety of this berry, it can be used to make fruit salads, jams. You can just eat it fresh.
Most gardeners grow small-fruited garden strawberries traditionally, planting young plants that were formed on the mother's mustache. In this case, it is enough to simply divide the plants and plant them. Growing a new plant from seeds is a rather laborious process. However, such efforts make sense.
Two important points provide the benefits of this method of growing strawberries:
To grow seedlings of small-fruited garden strawberries, you will need:
The best time to grow seedlings is at the end of January. It will take about a month for the sprouts to germinate. At this time, important rules and conditions must be followed:
When growing seedlings, there is a possibility of making some mistakes that will not allow young shoots to emerge. So, when sowing, you can not cover the seeds with a layer of soil, you can only lightly sprinkle them with sand, spray them from a spray bottle, "nailed" to the ground.
When we plant strawberries in cups, we carefully monitor where the growth point is (a small heart between the roots and the stem). It cannot be covered with earth. Otherwise, the sprouts will die.
Thus, observing simple conditions, you can grow small-fruited strawberry seedlings on your own. A good harvest will be guaranteed.
Most often there are varieties on sale small-fruited strawberries (Fragaria vesca) with the aroma of wild berries. However, with the growing popularity of "sowing" seedlings, more and more seeds of large-fruited varieties of garden strawberries appear on the market, or strawberry(Fragaria x ananassa ).
Winner of the prestigious FleroStar Eward 2011/12 award. A bush with large bright pink flowers and conical berries is not inferior in beauty to traditional ornamental plants. The hybrid is distinguished by excellent germination and evenness.
An unpretentious hybrid, it tolerates drought, frost and heavy rains remarkably. It produces a bit of a mustache and is considered the best outdoor variety. The bush is compact, the flower stalk is powerful, it rises 10 cm above the bush and perfectly holds the berries.
Powerful bush up to 30cm high. Gives a full-fledged mustache with rosettes. Berries weighing up to 35 g are very sweet. With good care, it demonstrates an outstanding yield - up to 2 kg per bush.
Forms vigorous plants with few whiskers and large bright pink flowers. The berries are conical in shape, medium in size (average weight - 15 g) and extraordinarily sweet, with the highest palatability.
A question from our subscriber Svetlana:
I read on the website that it is recommended to sow strawberries at the end of October. I have had several unsuccessful attempts to sow strawberries with seeds. True, I sowed it in boxes in the spring, observing all the recommendations that are written on a bag of seeds. I learned about the autumn sowing for the first time. Could you tell us about this in detail?
In the fall, there is no need to sow strawberries in the garden. Here is a quick technique for growing strawberries from seed (below). And in the summer I do it even easier. I pick off red ripe strawberries and smear them on the ground under a bush, cover them with earth a little. If it was possible to "smear" the first ripe berries at the beginning of summer, then the grown plants can be planted, and by the fall a full-fledged seedling-rosette will grow.
Breeding strawberries from seeds
Take loose garden soil in a box 10 - 12 cm deep. Level the soil surface well.
Drizzle, soaking to full depth. Sow seeds directly on the surface of the soil in rows every 3-4 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds with sand 0.5-2 mm thick, do not water, it will wash the seeds.
Wrap the box with foil and put it preferably to the battery. Until the seeds germinate, watering is not necessary, it is wet under the film. Temperature 24-30 degrees. Seedlings will appear on the 15-30th day.
After the appearance of the first shoots, remove the film, begin to water carefully.
When 1 - 2 leaves appear, cut open: row spacing 5 cm, and in a row after 5 cm.
The timing of sowing in boxes in the middle lane is the end of February, to the south - earlier, you will be late - it is possible in April.
If suddenly the seedlings begin to wilt, urgently pour over a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.
In the first box, the sown seeds, in the second - the sown plants.
For novice gardeners, the prospect of growing strawberry seedlings from seeds on their own can cause a feeling of helplessness, because a lot of effort will have to be made so that the plants do not die and begin to bear fruit. But even if you have no idea, how to grow strawberries from seeds, this article will help you succeed and get a good harvest.
Growing strawberries from seeds has its own advantages: seeds are stored for a long time, and various pathogenic viruses are not transmitted through them. For planting, you can purchase ready-made seeds or prepare them yourself. Propagation of strawberries by seeds is possible for any varieties, with the exception of hybrids. You can choose strawberry varieties so that berries ripen on your site throughout the summer.
Choose strawberries for seeds from well-developed bushes that are not damaged by anything and give a rich harvest. In ripe berries, seeds are recommended to be taken from the middle part, as well as near the base, since they are larger, have a developed embryo and are distinguished by high germination energy. Strawberries from seeds of this type will turn out beautiful, fruitful.
Choose strawberries for seeds from well-developed bushes that are not damaged by anything and give a rich harvest
Cut a layer of pulp from the berries, spread on absorbent paper and let dry. Then rub the dried mass in your palms, freeing the seeds. The finished planting material should be stored in a glass container.Video about harvesting strawberry seeds
Three months before sowing, the seeds need to be stratified - placed in a low temperature of + 2 + 4 degrees in a wet state, periodically adding a little water so that the seeds do not dry out. Stir the seeds every two weeks and dry them slightly just before sowing.
Alpine strawberries have a shallow root system located at the very surface of the soil. Therefore, the aisles on a strawberry plantation are loosened very carefully, to a depth of no more than two centimeters.
In hot dry weather, strawberries must be watered once a week with one and a half buckets of water per square meter. When watering, only the soil under the plants and around them is moistened, avoiding water getting on the leaves, flowers and berries.
When watering, only the soil is moistened, without touching flowers and leaves
The best fertilizer for strawberries is natural leaf humus, which is scattered in the spring over the soil surface by about half a bucket per square meter. You can also use purchased organic fertilizers based on vermicompost. Mineral fertilizers are not needed at all: they will hardly add to the harvest, and the quality of the berries will significantly spoil. Fresh manure is categorically contraindicated for strawberries.
Strawberries suffer greatly from weeds, especially from perennials, which can completely destroy an unattended plantation in a season. To save time and effort, strawberry beds are usually mulched with a special black coating of non-woven agrofibre or any suitable organic matter (straw, sawdust, nutshells). Mulching retains moisture in the soil, inhibits the growth of weeds, eliminates time-consuming loosening and weeding.
Mulching retains moisture in the soil and inhibits weed growth
Ruyan's repairing alpine strawberry is not affected by powdery mildew and is relatively resistant to gray mold. The most noticeable harm to it is caused by slugs and snails, and of the diseases, the most dangerous is verticillary wilting.
It is strictly forbidden to use any pesticides on fruiting plantations of remontant strawberries.